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I had to leave home before I ate garlic. Goat's cheese was a mystery to me. What I needed was a Mary-Ellen McTague taco in my life. For the February issue of OFM she joins Nathan Outlaw, Allegra McEvedy, Jack Monroe, Jason Atherton, Vivek Singh and others in telling what they cook for their kids at home (I actually envy Jason Atherton's daughters' adobo) while Claire Thompson of Five O'Clock Apron shares her failsafe family recipes.
Not all children eat well, of course, thousands are getting their main meal of the day courtesy of Kids Company. Jay Rayner joins them. Plus, Nigel Slater takes a trip through the brave new world of sausages, Evangaline Lilly puts her Life on a Plate and Lisa Abend has a brilliant behind-the-scenes report from Noma in Japan.
February OFM, the Kids Issue: out this Sunday. |
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Sometimes I try not to be a food-loving cliché, fixated on the arrival of forced rhubarb grown in candlelit caves in the Yorkshire triangle or wittering on about woodcock. Other times I think, dammit, Jeremy Lee has this first delivery of Scottish sea kale in so I've got to get myself down to Quo Vadis. |
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In a world dominated by hipster brew, I am slightly obsessed by two new Guinness beers (or rather two 200-year-old recipes reworked). My favourite is the almost understated and elegant Guinness Dublin Porter, slightly safer at 3.8% than the West Indies Porter at 6%.
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I admit I made a mistake. I dined at Kitty Fisher’s in Shepherd’s Market and didn’t eat the Galician steak. It was more the 45 minutes it takes to cook than the slightly scary price. I did though eat the fried shrimp, the whipped roe, the charred bread with ash butter. All excellent. I'll be back for the beef.
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The stand-out dish at the tiny, no-bookings Smoking Goat Thai restaurant in Soho is the chicken wings coated in fish sauce, giving the tempura batter a brilliant salty, sweet kick of umami. Get there early though – they don't even have a phone number. 7 Denmark St, WC2; @SmokinGoatSoho
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Stuggling to find a use for those lonely, leftover oranges? Why not try Nigel's warming and succulent duck with ginger and citrus - perfect with nutty brown rice and steamed greens on a winter evening.
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Allan Jenkins, editor, Observer Food Monthly |
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Pick up Observer Food Monthly this Sunday
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